The Tudor Black Bay 79220R: The Watch That Redefined Tudor

Looking for a luxury watch with heritage appeal that won’t break the bank like a Rolex? The Tudor Black Bay 79220R might be exactly what you need. This iconic timepiece strikes the perfect balance between vintage charm and modern reliability, offering exceptional value and a design that stands the test of time.

A Comeback Story Worth Telling

During the 1990s, Tudor went through a period of experimentation and even pulled out of the American market. As the 2000s rolled around, Tudor began hinting at their return to the US, culminating in the announcement of the Tudor Pelagos and the Tudor Black Bay in 2012.

While both models generated excitement, it was the Black Bay 79220R (the early red bezel version with an ETA movement) that truly became the catalyst for Tudor’s transformation. This particular watch paved the way for new color variations, in-house movements, and popular models like the Black Bay Fifty-Eight and Black Bay GMT.

What makes the 79220R special is how it beautifully marries the design language of vintage Tudor Submariner models like the 7922 and 7916, incorporating the Tudor Rose logo and classic Submariner aesthetics while adding modern reliability.

The Specs That Make It Special

The Tudor Black Bay 79220R features:

• Case Size: 41mm with approximately 49.3mm lug-to-lug
• Thickness: A relatively slim 12.7mm (compared to 14.8mm on in-house movement versions)
• Bezel: Burgundy 60-click unidirectional bezel that’s both functional and distinctive
• Crystal: Domed sapphire glass for clarity and durability
• Movement: ETA 2824 with 25 jewels, 28,800 vph, and approximately 38 hours of power reserve
• Bracelet: Oyster-style with a fold-over clasp featuring ceramic pins and micro-adjustments
• Dial: Features the charming “smiley” curved “self-winding” text and Tudor Rose logo at 12 o’clock
• Crown: Tudor Rose signed with a distinctive burgundy tube between crown and case

Why I Love The Black Bay 79220R

• Heritage with Modern Reliability: It perfectly blends vintage Tudor Submariner design cues with modern construction, especially with that Tudor Rose nod to history.
• Exceptional Build Quality: The overall construction and finish are polished and precise. The original bracelet is particularly impressive, feeling remarkably close to Rolex quality.
• Incredible Lume: Some of the best lume in its price range, making it perfectly legible in low-light conditions.
• Easy Serviceability: The ETA 2824 movement is reliable, widely available, and significantly cheaper to service compared to in-house calibers. Most watchmakers can service it for a reasonable cost.
• Collectibility: Being among the first of the modern Black Bay line adds to its appeal, making the “Smiley” dial versions increasingly sought after by collectors.
• Versatility: Thanks to its slimmer profile (compared to in-house versions), it fits a wide range of wrist sizes and pairs well with various straps.

A Few Minor Drawbacks

• Crown Paint Issues: Some early models had reports of the paint on the crown wearing off, though this wasn’t universal.
• Not In-House: If you specifically want Tudor’s in-house movement with its 70-hour power reserve, you’ll need to look at later models.
• Availability: Being an earlier, discontinued model, finding a pristine example is becoming increasingly difficult.

What To Expect Price-wise

While new Black Bays generally range from $2,000 to $4,000, the pre-owned market for ETA versions like the 79220R can vary significantly due to their collectibility. The black bezel “Smiley” versions are particularly valuable.

If you’re looking at bracelet options, the original ETA Black Bay on its bracelet is often considered better value than later models. One important tip: buying a Black Bay on a leather strap with the intention of adding a bracelet later can be significantly more expensive than buying it with the bracelet initially.

How It Stacks Up Against the Competition

• Tudor Pelagos: While introduced alongside the Black Bay in 2012, the Pelagos has a more modern, technical diving watch aesthetic with titanium construction and 500m water resistance. The Black Bay 79220R offers more vintage charm and is generally considered more versatile for everyday wear.
• Black Bay Fifty-Eight: If you find the 41mm case of the 79220R too large, the BB58’s 39mm case might be perfect. However, many collectors prefer the original “Smiley” dial and the slimmer profile of the ETA-powered 79220R over the in-house BB58.
• Later Black Bay Generations: The newer Black Bays offer in-house movements with 70-hour power reserves and COSC certification, but they’re thicker at nearly 15mm and feature the more divisive rivet bracelet. The Gen 3 models do have the advantage of a T-Fit clasp with on-the-fly adjustments.
• Rolex Submariner: While sharing design DNA, the Submariner costs roughly 2-3 times more. The 79220R offers much of the same appeal and quality at a fraction of the price, without the waiting lists or market premiums.
• Vintage Tudor Submariners: Original 7922 and 7916 models that inspired the Black Bay command high prices on the vintage market and come with the maintenance concerns of truly vintage pieces. The 79220R gives you that vintage look with modern reliability.
• Omega Seamaster 300: A comparable heritage-inspired diver with an in-house movement, but typically at a higher price point and with a more modern aesthetic despite its vintage influences.

The Legacy That Started It All

The Tudor Black Bay 79220R holds a significant place in Tudor’s history as the catalyst for the brand’s modern success. It masterfully blends vintage design with modern build quality and offers a compelling value proposition, particularly due to its ETA movement’s serviceability.

While later generations introduced in-house movements and updated features, many collectors still prefer the original 79220R for its slimmer profile, distinctive “Smiley” dial, and that fantastic original bracelet that feels like it could have come from Tudor’s more expensive sibling brand.

If you’re after a watch with genuine heritage, modern reliability, and a design that will never go out of style, the Tudor Black Bay 79220R deserves a serious look.